Part 4 - Chapter 1

Colonial dress in the eighteenth century. 

Since European and Colonial (American) styles of dress continued to play an important role in the development of the Indians' dress and adornment, these styles will be addressed prior to discussing the evolution of Indian dress in the eighteenth century.

The dress worn in various countries of Europe differed from that worn in the colonies. Even though wealthy families in the colonies had many of their clothes and/or materials imported, changes in styles and fabric, however slight, had to be made to adapt to the different living conditions. In addition, while European dress was different, according to country and region of abode, the colonies became a European "melting pot" early on with various styles in evidence.

Colonial dress will be presented1, rather than the dress worn strictly in Europe since the former was more prevalent and thus, in all probability, of more influence on the Indian. European dress, however, will not be excluded in this discussion.

Colonial dress, as was the manner of dress in Europe, was not the same throughout the colonies. Colonial dress differed mainly with respect to: place of habitat; occupation; social position, although not as strictly as it did in Europe; religious affiliation; and, sometimes, country of origin (as with many of the Scottish settlers).

Modes of dress are often identified according to the particular ruler of England, France, and, less often, Spain. Since the majority of the colonies were controlled by the English, the important rulers were: 

                         William and Mary                         1689-1702

                         Queen Anne                                 1702-1714

                         George I                                       1714-1727

                         George II                                      1727-1760

                         George III                                    1760-1820 

Although the styles of dress changed, as they always do, during the eighteenth century, the Indian still, generally, chose those articles of dress that he or she desired and wore them as he or she saw fit. The exceptions, where the Indians wore clothes as dictated by the White man, were usually decreed by White religious leaders.

During the first part of the eighteenth century, sumptuous fabrics, laces, and frills were still imported from Europe for the upper class.

During the reign of Queen Anne, the women's gowns were still long and full; worn low at the neck with sleeves to the elbows that ended in bands of lace. The hair was often worn in soft curls which fell to the shoulders and hoods of various colors were worn. Fans were carried every where by ladies of "quality".

The men's dress differed little from what was worn during the reign of William and Mary. Men of "quality" were still supposed to wear long, powdered wigs although as early as 1706 the Ramilie wig was introduced. This wig consisted of a tail down the back that was tied by a large bow at the nape of the neck and a smaller one at the end of the tail. Red heeled shoes were introduced during this time frame.

The men's coats throughout the early part of the eighteenth century were full and stiff with low collars that exposed the neck stock (similar to a cravat) and had large cuffs that could extend to the elbow. The shirts were ruffled and made from fine linen. Tri-cornered hats worn over the wigs were still in style.

The reign of George I saw, once again, minor changes in dress. Women often substituted black and white Beaver hats lined with colored silks for hoods. Watteau sacques were worn over petticoats (petticoats were equivalent to modern skirts) and rouched caps of muslin that tied under the chin were worn indoors.

In the second decade of the eighteenth century, Hugh Jones who was Chaplain of the Honorable Assembly and Minister of James Town in Virginia wrote that the "good" families of Williamsburg

"live in the same neat manner, dress after the same modes, and behave themselves exactly as the gentry in London."2

One article of dress that was to determine much of a woman's life was the stays or "paire of bodices". These corsets were considered mandatory dress for any "proper" woman.

With the advent of George II, women's clothes underwent a small modification. Women's hoops became less exaggerated than during the previous two reigns and rounder. However, by 1745, the hoops had lost their roundness. They became flatter in front and wider at the sides. The front of the gown often ended in a point below the waist. The gown could be split in the front making visible an ornate petticoat. The back of the gown was often in the form of a flowing watteau which could form a short train.

The scarlet cloak with a hood called a "Cardinal" became very popular. By 1756, another type of cloak had become popular; this one was made of satin or black velvet and had slits for the arms. It was known as the "Pompadour".

The ladies still wore indoor ruffled caps although these were smaller than previously; however, the outdoor hat had become larger.

The length of the aprons worn varied from long ones in 1740 to shorter ones, and then, long ones again by 1752.

The "man of fashion" during the reign of George II had his choice of many styles of wigs, modifications of those previously described, and, also, many variations on the tri-cornered hat. As the fan was a very important accessory for a "woman of fashion", the snuff-box was for "the man of fashion.

Beginning in the first third of the eighteenth century, the mention of a garment called "trowsers"3 or "trousers" started to appear. The Cunningtons define trowsers or trousers as such:

"A garment enclosing the legs and extending from the waist to the ankles. Its legs' not shaped but varying in the degree of looseness......1730 to end of 18th c[entury]... .... Trowsers wide-legged, ending just below the calf, made with a narrow belt buttoned in front; a front opening buttoned without a fly covering.

"Worn by the lower orders in town or country and by sailors and soldiers."4

Starting in the eighteen thirties in England, the well off man of style started to imitate the dress of the lower class. The Frock similar to the coat but looser and less rigid had previously been the dress of the common labourer. Although still worn by the common man to protect his clothes, it now was made of rich fabrics and became an accepted article of apparel of the more fortunate.5

In a similar vein, around the middle of the century, another aspect of "lower class" dress had been appropriated by the upper classes. Buckskin breeches, which had always been worn by the laboring man became popular with the wealthy6 both in the colonies and abroad. This trend, of course, necessitated the importation of large quantities of skins to England.

Both men's and women's shoes had been previously constructed with square toes. During the reign of George II, pointed toes became fashionable. Shoe buckles became very popular and the material used and their type was, often, used as a gauge of status.

During the seventeen forties and fifties, claret colored cloth as well as light blue cloth was considered the correct color for suits.

Other changes in men's dress occurred in the middle of the eighteenth century. The full wig became passé and was replaced by a pig tail. Male fashion, still, consisted of frilled shirts worn with gold cuff links although the long cravat had been replaced by a small black one.

By the middle of the eighteenth century, the wealthy planters and their wives realized that the formal wear popular in England was not particularly suitable to the hot, muggy summers of the southeast. A mode of dress, worn by both, that became popular was that of the morning gown and cap. This morning gown did away with multi-layered and tightly fitted garments. The male morning gown was also called a banyan and it resembled the Indian matchcoat. Men, also, wore indoors along with their Banyans morning caps. These resembled large berets that were worn straight back or turbans. The reign of George III spanned beyond the American revolution and into the nineteenth century.

   Costume Plate # 12
   Banyan and Turban
12banyansm.jpg (5755 bytes)
The fashionable lady in the eighteenth century not only carried a fan but, also, wore an ornamental box that hung from her waist. This box held the items that were considered necessary for a woman of "quality". These included sewing utensils and a scent bottle. Other items that were considered necessary accessories were: a snuff-box, the pomander (a perforated box for holding scent), and the pouncet box, which served a similar function to the Pomander.

Dresses among the "gentry" continued to be sumptuous and extravagant. Flowers or feathers could be worn in the hair, which was sometimes powdered, instead of indoor caps although the mob cap continued to be popular for indoor wear.

The styles of the dresses were by no means all the same. The skirts could, often, be looped up to assist in walking, especially over dirt roads. Hoops, also, started to disappear. However, various pads including bum rolls and bishops replaced the hoop. Also, many under petticoats were worn to increase the width of the skirt.

In the second half of the eighteenth century, women, also, wore waistcoats that were cut similar to a man's. According to the Cunningtons, this was worn as a fill in garment under a bodice or with a riding habit.7

Men of that period still dressed ornately and with many layers. The suit (the breeches and coat) often contrasted with the waistcoat that was worn under the coat. Waistcoats could have sleeves or be sleeveless, similar to a modern vest. Both styles are pictured in portraits and books. Large silver buttons were used on coats and waistcoats and signified status and wealth.

Their hair, when not covered by a wig, was curled and powdered for ceremonial occasions. By 1770 the wig had lost its popularity and natural hair was, once again, stylish. It was usually styled with "frizzled side locks".

Right before the beginning of the Revolutionary war, the parasol was introduced in Philadelphia as a means of protection against the sun. It was not readily accepted as noted by its absence from paintings of that period,

With the advent of the Revolutionary war in 1775, colonists stopped relying on imported English goods including all types of fabric, and all classes began to rely more heavily on more locally produced fabrics especially fine wool and flax.

After the revolution, when importation of goods was resumed, materials and styles were imported from France rather than from England, and French fashion prevailed among the "gentry".

After the revolutionary war, various fashion changes occurred. Women stopped using the hoop to extend the circumference of their skirts, long handkerchiefs were pinned around the neck with a brooch, capes of all varieties were worn, and the greatcoat a generic term for an outer garment8 gained renown. A greatcoat dress, which was a type of loose and comfortable garment, was also popular. The bodice of the gown came to a sharp point in front, as it had previously, but the shape and cut of the skirt changed considerably. Paniers became fashionable and the underskirt was gathered at the waist and fell to the floor or ankles in the shape of a dome. The panier was created by a hoop or a similar shaped form to extend the hips. The skirt part of the gown was, then, draped over theses false hips. This fashion was of French origin. The dress, however, could have a modified pointed bodice with a skirt that fell gracefully to the ground extending in a slight rear train. The sleeves could, also, be extended to the wrist.

Some women still wore their hair highly powdered for ceremonial occasions, but the natural look of curls that cascaded down a woman's shoulders and back was also popular. Headdresses of cloth tied in the fashion of a turban could be worn over the powdered hair while wide brimmed hats seemed more practical when placed over the natural curls.

Men's dress in this post revolutionary period did not undergo significant changes. It was not until the seventeen nineties that radical changes in dress appeared, especially among women.

  Costume Plate # 13
British Military Dress
13british military dress 1776sm.jpg (4449 bytes)In 1795, the stiff fabric and style of women's clothing underwent a radical change that followed the fashion dictates of France. Women's dress became simple, soft, and flowing. Heavily boned undergarments were discarded. The waist line was suddenly placed under the bust. The shoulders became drop shoulders and the sleeves were slightly puffed at the armcyes (arm holes) and then worn tight to the wrist. Also worn, were short puffed sleeves that originated at the normally positioned shoulder. The gowns, although gathered at the high waist line, were not full nor extended by crinolines. This style was known in France as the "empire style". The hair was, also worn loosely in curls caught by a comb or with ribbons. This style extended into the very early nineteenth century.

Men's coats were, also, cut with short waists and were tightly fitted to the body. A straight-brimmed hat replaced the tri-corned cocked hat. Men's shirts were still ruffled, but soft stocks wound around the neck and ending in a bow under the chin replaced cravats.

During the revolutionary war, both British and colonial uniforms were numerous. The various styles will not be described, however, it is important to note the colors that were used. Blue and bright red were the predominant colors. The uniforms of both the British and Continental army were very dashing and colorful.

Working men and women, servants, and apprentices did not dress as did those persons of "quality" or the "landed gentry". Their clothes consisted more of homespun or leather than of silk and had to be practical and less confining. The working women always dressed in a more modest fashion than did the wealthier woman. Long aprons always were worn except, possibly, when a woman was attired in her "Sunday best." Mob caps were, also, a mandatory item of dress. Some were tied under the chin while other just rested on the head. She, also, was prone to wear more comfortable garments such as the shortgown, which could be worn without stays, over a petticoat.  

 Costume Plate # 14
 Working Man's Dress
14working mans dresssm.jpg (5602 bytes)
The shortgown was to play a major role in the dress of Southeastern Indian women from the latter part of the eighteenth century well into the nineteenth century. It was a jacket-like garment with long fitted sleeves, a round neck, and an opening down the front. It reached the hips and was worn over a petticoat. The shortgown was cut so that the long sleeves were a part of the bodice as well as was the flared extension or peplum that fell over the hips. The waist could be fitted or loose. It was made of various types of materials - those suited for everyday wear and those for special occasions.9 (See Costume Plate 11, Part 4, Introduction.)

The shortgowns were closed in front with vertical pins, ribbons, and/or a draw string through casing sewn at the waist.10 The front edges of the short gown could meet exactly or could overlap. When overlapping, they were pinned closed.11 Sometimes the shortgowns were lined.

Merideth Wright made the comment that when the fabric was too narrow to lay out the garment completely, it would be pieced together and not necessarily in a symmetrical fashion.12

As stated the shortgown was worn over a petticoat. An apron was tied over the petticoat and the shortgown. This garment was very popular with rural women, both Indian and White. One finds reference to it throughout the literature. Sometimes male commentators referred to it as a jacket or a bodice. The authors have tried to identify it by its correct name wherever possible.

The working man's costume was also simple although it followed in a very modified form the dress of the "gentry". It was usually made out of a coarse and heavy fabric or out of tanned leather. Heavy, practical shoes were worn by both sexes.

During the eighteenth century, especially toward the end, more people left the Atlantic seaboard and headed in a westerly direction toward the colonial frontier.13

Initially the pioneers made their clothes from tanned hides after the Indian fashion. The men usually wore leather hunting smocks, leggings, and moccasins. For an undergarment, they, often, wore the breech-clout.  

   Costume Plate # 15
      Frontier Man
15frontier mansm.jpg (5309 bytes)
The hunting smocks were designed as tunics and belted at the waist. Sometimes they had fringed yokes or capes attached. They, also, were open in front, sometimes belted in back, and decorated with fringes, pleats, and arm bands near the elbow. The sleeves were often full ending in a tight cuff.14 However, their designs varied according to the fancy of the wearer.

As families followed the first male pioneers, much of the leather clothing was replaced by homespun materials. The hunting shirt began to be made of linsey-woolsey. It was often dyed blue and decorated with yellow fringe,15 but it still retained its individualistic design.

There are different opinions as to the origin of the hunting shirt or smock. Some historians believe it to be of Indian origin. If this is true, there is no indication that it originated with the Southeastern Indians. Others believe that it grew out of the "simple frock of the farmer or labourer of the day."16

Women on the frontier dressed in simple homespun. The bodices were only minimally pointed and the skirts reached only to the ankles. These women wore their hair in plates or gathered in a knot at the back. Hats were rarely worn; hoods or shawls were used in inclement weather. The women wore on their feet either stout square-toed shoes, moccasins after the Indian fashion, or nothing in warm weather.

The pioneer men and women lived, obviously, more closely to the Indian than did the gentry. However, as can be seen from paintings and as described in journals, the Indians adopted clothes from both classes of society and, often, held them in value according to their societal class of origin.

   Costume Plate # 16
    Frontier Woman

16frontier woman sm.jpg (5360 bytes)Another group of people in the southeast who were often seen by those Indians living in close proximity to the plantations or who came to the cities to trade were the slaves. These were dressed according to the function. They could be dressed in livery, breeches, waistcoat etc., or in a simple loose top and breeches. These latter clothes were made from a cloth called "negro cloth" or "negro Cotton". This was a cheap white or unbleached cotton cloth. Ticking and cheap and coarse linen were also used. Sometimes these cloths were dyed or striped.17

The eighteenth century, also, saw a migration of Highland Scots to North Carolina in 1746 and then a migration of some of these families to the lower Georgia frontier and the territory of the Lower Creeks later in the century.

To these Scots their Highland customs were sacrosanct and they followed these customs including the manner of dress. The men continued to wear the bright Highland plaid kilt as well as their other unique forms of dress.18

Scottish men's dress in the early seventeenth century consisted of a belted plaid which was a woollen rectangle, part of which was fastened in pleats to the waist and extending to the knees in the form of a skirt; the rest was draped around the upper body in various ways. From about 1725 the skirt part of the outfit was separated from the upper drape and became known as the kilt. The upper part of the body was covered by a shirt, then a doublet, and finally, a jacket. On their heads they wore a bonnet which was a type of "pill box" hat that sat on top of the head decorated by a band of plaid and usually with a plume fastened to the side. Stockings were worn to below the knees, held up by garters. Low, flat heeled shoes finished the ensemble.19 The women, also dressed in plaids and tied a white kerchief over their heads.20                           

Throughout the eighteenth century and into the nineteenth century, those of Scotch and Scotch-Irish descent would play a significant role in the Indian trade.   

Among the dress of the middle to late 18th century that was coveted by the Indians was the frock coat that was worn by the military, especially the British. Although rank and regiment had its own different insignias, wore different colors, and had differences in dress, the frock coat was usually red with blue or yellow collar and cuffs. The tails of the frock coat were pinned back to reveal a white lining. However, the tightness of the coat, its length, collar, etc. varied not only as to rank and company affiliation, but in reference to the time period in which it was worn.21

The British soldiers wore either white or yellow pantaloons or breeches, boots with or without gaiters, and hats of various styles.22

During the American Revolution, the American soldier wore anything from frontier attire to full dress uniforms similar to the British but usually with blue or brown waistcoats and yellow or white breeches or pantaloons.23  


1. Unless otherwise noted, all material in this section is from Elizabeth McClellan's History of American Costume, pp. 133-240.

2. Hugh Jones, The Present State of Virginia, Morton 1956 edition, p. 71.

3. From a list of articles to be brought to Georgia. Benjamin Martyn, An Account Shewing the Progress of the Colony of Georgia in America from its First Establishment, p. 47.

4. Cunningtons, A Dictionary of English Costumes, pp. 217-218.

5. Cunningtons, Handbook of English Costume in the Eighteenth Century, pp. 17-18 & 56-57.

6. Ibid., pp. 18-19.

7. Cunningtons, A Dictionary of English Costume, p. 234.

8. Ibid., pp. 97-98.

9. Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America 1783-1800, p. 44; Ellen Gehret, Rural Pennsylvania Clothing, pp. 33-34.

10. Ellen Gehret, Rural Pennsylvania Clothing, p. 33.

11. Merideth Wright, Everyday Dress of Rural America 1783-1800, p. 44.

12. Ibid., p. 45.

13. The material that describes dress on the frontier was taken from the book by Warwick, Pitz, and Wyckoff, Early Dress in America, pp. 265-272.

14. Martin Windrow & Gerry Embleton, Military Dress of North America 1665-1970, pp. 14-15.

15. Warwick, Pitz, and Wyckoff, Early Dress in America, p. 269.

16. Martin Woodrow & Gerry Embleton, Military Dress of North America 1665-1970, p. 15.

17. Peter Copeland, Working Dress in Colonial America, pp. 174-175.

18. Fussell M. Chalker, "Highland Scots in the Georgia Lowlands", Georgia Historical Quarterly, Volume 60, 1976.

19. Doreen Yarwood, The Encyclopedia of World Costume, pp. 358-361.

20. Ibid., p. 360.

21. I. T. Schick, Battledress, pp. 53-54.

22. Ibid., p. 54.

23. Ibid., pp. 48 & 55.